Posted in Technical Articles by Chris on June 17th, 2008
There is 1 comment so far.

Detailed gear ratio specifications for the 3000GT and Stealth transmissions, tabulated for easy reference. These specs mostly come from published Mitsubishi or Dodge factory service manuals, but some pieces were filled in from counting the teeth on gears from the physical trans. This covers all AWD and all FWD transaxles in the US Domestic Market (USDM) and the notably different models in the Japanese Domestic Market (JDM).

Key: MT = Manual Transmission, AT = Automatic Transmission, Z11A = FWD chassis, Z16A = AWD chassis w/ 4WS, Z15A = AWD Chassis w/o 4WS

USDM AWD Models:

W5MG1 5-spd AWD MT W6MG1 6-spd AWD MT
1991-1993 Z16A 1994-1999 Z16A
Gear Overall Indiv.
1st 12.200 3.071
2nd 6.908 1.739
3rd 4.383 1.103
4th 3.271 0.824
5th 2.620 0.660
Rev 12.212 3.076
Final ——– 3.97
Gear Overall Indiv.
1st 12.674 3.266
2nd 7.377 1.904
3rd 4.806 1.241
4th 3.555 0.918
5th 2.838 0.733
6th 2.281 0.589
Rev 12.209 3.153
Final ——– 3.872

Read the rest of this entry »

 
Posted in Technical Articles by Chris on June 3rd, 2008
There are (4) comments so far.

Virtually every modification I have made to a car has been in the name of increased performance, whether improving power, handling, or braking. A few months ago, in light of ever increasing gas prices, I decided to try something that would help my fuel economy. My 1994 Protege LX, like so many other economy cars, has a very short fifth gear. So short that the engine runs at 3,500rpm when driving at 70mph. If fifth gear were taller and the engine ran slower, the highway milage could be improved significantly.

Read the rest of this entry »

 
Posted in In the News by Chris on May 31st, 2008
There is 1 comment so far.

Chrysler and its sub-brands (Dodge and Jeep) are offering $2.99/gallon gas for three years when you buy a new car. According to CBS News, that’s not such a great deal, when you consider the total costs involved. There’s a shocker. Skipping for a minute the costs of buying new cars, much of Chrysler’s product line gets somewhere between pretty mediocre and distinctly terrible fuel economy. What do you do after the 3-year guarantee runs out? Like so much in the auto sales industry, this is little more than a marketing gimmick.


Technorati : , , , , , ,

 

If you’ve been reading our articles this time of year, you’ve probably heard us rambling about racing cars on frozen lakes in upstate New York. If you haven’t, have a read and take a look at some pictures to see what it’s all about.

Ice racing is a great way to build experience in actual competition driving without the expense of building a dedicated race car or the irritation of three-short-laps-per-day SCCA Autocross. As an added bonus, ice racing happens in the off months when you won’t normally be getting any track time anyhow. If you live in the Northern US or the populated parts of Canada, there is probably an ice racing organization within driving distance. For those in New York and New England, I recommend the Adirondack Motor Enthusiasts Club (AMEC) for their large events, experienced organizers, and enthusiastic participants.

So you have a car with proper tires, you know the rules and requirements of the organization you will be racing with, and you want to be prepared on race day. What will you bring? What should you expect? How should you drive once you get on the ice?

Read the rest of this entry »

 
Posted in Technical Articles by Chris on January 14th, 2008
There is 1 comment so far.

From the last article on this subject, we know that a planetary differential is capable of distributing torque unequally to its outputs based on its design. We discovered that torque split is constant for any rate of speed and irrespective of which output rotates faster, neglecting the viscous coupling (VCU) action– but what sets this ratio? Can it be changed? How can we easily determine the design torque split of a planetary differential?

Despite how complicated it looks, the ratio of a planetary differential is simple to find. When the ring gear is the input, as with the 3000GT/Stealth AWD center differential, the ratio of the sun gear to the ring gear gives us the proportion of input torque supplied to the sun gear output. In other words if we have a ring gear with 100 teeth, a sun gear with 40 teeth and the ring gear is the input, the sun gear receives 40/100 or 40% of the input torque. If 10ft-lbs is the input torque, 4ft-lbs is applied to the output (neglecting friction).

simple 60:40 planetary differential

And the torque supplied to the planet carrier? That’s the remaining 60% in this example, or 6ft-lbs.

Let’s look at a model of the actual 3/S center differential. If the stock sun gear is 27 teeth and the ring gear is 60 teeth, we find a ratio of 27/60 to the sun gear (front output), or 45% of the available torque. The remaining 55% goes through the planet carrier to the center output shaft and to the rear wheels.

3000GT Stealth center differential

What if we wanted to change this ratio? Someone with the knowledge and resources to cut his own gears could modify the factory center differential with a new sun gear and a redesigned planet carrier (the original planet gears could be reused). Such a modified differential could achieve significant changes in torque split just by adding or subtracting three teeth from the sun gear:

3000GT Stealth modified center differentials

And so a rear-biased 60:40 ratio is hardly out of reach. For someone going to the effort of fabricating a new sun gear and modified planet carrier, more radical torque splits are a minor design change away. Getting a radical 65% of drive torque to the rear wheels could be done with a 21-tooth sun gear!

What about the planet gears? Believe it or not, the planet gears have no effect on the torque split of the differential — none. The factory center differential has 13-tooth planet gears, but the following differentials have the same torque split ratio:

center differential with modified planet gears

In fact, the outer planet gears can even be different sizes than the inside planet gears without having any effect on torque split. Remember: the ratio of the ring gear to the sun gear alone determines torque split.

So why not make the planet gears as small as possible to shrink the differential down? Besides approaching a practical limit to how few teeth a gear can have and still make good contact with another gear, the simplest answer is strength. Because drive torque is still transmitted through the planet gears, they need to be large enough to carry the load.

That’s the long and short of it. Anybody want to machine some gears?

 
Posted in Technical Articles by Chris on December 1st, 2007
There is 1 comment so far.

Last year in my more than you ever wanted to know about AWD systems article, I described the function of several types of passive all-wheel-drive arrangements. One of the most popular passive center differentials is the planetary differential. A planetary differential offers some advantages over the traditional bevel-gear differential, which is often used as the front or rear differential of a FWD, RWD, or AWD car — although some cars such as the DSM or manual transmission WRX use a bevel gear center diff.

Unlike a bevel gear differential which necessitates an equal torque split on both outputs, a planetary differential can be designed for completely symmetric through radically asymmetric output according to what the application requires. The 3000GT and Stealth AWD system has such a planetary differential, and I have an animation to help visualize it:

Read the rest of this entry »

 

Recently I put Carbotech pads on my Protege for a quick-and-dirty track outing. I chose the AX6 compound up front and Bobcat for the rear, the former (previously called Panther Plus) having performed flawlessly on my Stealth at the track while retaining good street characteristics. In the process of changing pads I replaced a seized caliper and all four rotors. No sooner had I bedded the new pads in and started driving to work did I notice my brake pedal would occasionally go to the floor. After a little cautious driving and a refill of the half-empty brake reservoir, I determined that the new rear caliper was leaking A LOT from the piston seal. Score one for rebuilt calipers from Autozone! There was brake fluid EVERYWHERE. Having the caliper replaced under warranty was a no-brainer, but how does one salvage pads that are saturated in DOT 4 brake fluid?

The answer should have been obvious, but knowing how particular they are about bedding procedures I called Carbotech to be sure. Janine took my call and was so gracious as to take my number, call the tech who had just left, Chris, on his cell phone, and call me back with the answer within a couple minutes:

Apparently it is perfectly acceptable to clean brake fluid off an oil-soaked pad surface with — would you have guessed it — brake parts cleaner. Over a pint of brake fluid on my disc, caliper, pads, and wheel well was visually intimidating; those parts just aren’t supposed to be lubricated. For that reason I fully expected to hear “oh, you’ll have to replace those pads”. Guess not.

 
Posted in Technical Articles by Chris on October 19th, 2007
There are (2) comments so far.

Mazda did a really poor job of anticipating and preventing corrosion in their early-90s cars. One of the ways this lack of foresight manifests itself is in the brakes – namely the mechanical rear disc emergency brake or parking brake of the Miata and Protege. The Miata/Protege emergency brake is built into the rear calipers and is actuated by lever which is pulled by the “ebrake” cable. Over time the lever on the brake caliper will tend to stick despite a strong spring that is supposed to return it to an unlocked position. If it sticks badly enough the only solution is to buy a new caliper, but less than $5 and a little creativity can fix this problem if you catch it early-on.
Read the rest of this entry »

 
Posted in Failures, Technical Articles by Chris on October 17th, 2007
There are (2) comments so far.

I’ve owned a lot of cars at this point in my life. No fewer than ten vehicles have come into my ownership in the past decade, most of which were beaters, and all of which had between 75k and 175k miles on them. Fully 30% of the vehicles I have owned have been Mazda Proteges of between 130k and 170k. Every one of those Proteges has had some kind of unacceptable corrosion above and beyond the norm for a New England vehicle of similar age and mileage. Some examples would include:

  • rusted, leaking gas tank
  • excessive underbody rust/rot
  • structrual unibody rust with holes — rear strut towers, trunk
  • completely unremovable rear suspension components
  • rusted, seized brake components — bleeder screws*

Read the rest of this entry »

 
Posted in Reviews by Chris on October 1st, 2007
Nobody has commented yet. Click here to be the first!

The other day I reached in my basement to grab an extra spare for a long trip and pulled out one of my Green Diamond Icelander tires from last season. Now we seem to be a long way from winter, and I certainly haven’t grown sick of hot, dry tarmac, but snow driving has been on my mind recently — specifically winter tire selection — as in which rubber innovations should I try for ice racing competition this season.

But I noticed something that hadn’t been apparent when they were removed last spring:

Green Diamond tire tread

Read the rest of this entry »

 Next Page »