On Sunday, before the 3-hour endurance race, I had a chance to talk roll cages with IT racer Matt Baldoni and roll cage designer Chris Howard, formerly of Precision Motorsports. I’ve decided to turn my Protege into an IT (Improved Touring) racer, which means a full SCCA-compliant cage. Being the DIY people that we are here, I wanted to get together with Chris and Tim and build our own. But Matt and Chris convinced me that, in this rare instance, it will be better to step aside and let people of experience do the work.

When I told Matt I was going to do my own cage, he said, jokingly, don’t. “The SCCA has so many small rules,” he said, “that if you haven’t done a bunch of cages you’re likely to miss something.” Even if you’re a great fabricator, it’s tough to get every little thing right, like the proper angles for the rear support bars and the total degree of bend in the main hoop. Plus, an experienced builder is going to be up-to-date on minor elements of roll cage design, such as techniques for tying-in the mounting points to as many spots as possible. He said he already sees aspects of the cage in his ITB VW Sirocco that could be improved.

To build your own cage you need a bender, welder, and a few other specialty tools in addition to the tubing. Even bought used, these can be expensive. To have an SCCA-compliant cage put in is under 1500 dollars. The tubing, bend radius, and anchoring have to conform to specific SCCA standards. Said Matt, “When you consider the cost of your materials, the price for having someone build a cage for you isn’t all that high.”

Howard will build and install an IT cage for $1350: Main hoop with triangulating bar, roof halo, front bars, passenger side X brace, driver’s side NASCAR bars (which are now required), harness bar, and rear horizontal bar. “Some people like to do additional bars, like a diagonal across the roof halo, passenger side NASCAR bars, and a bar from the main hoop to the passenger footwell,” said Chris Howard. Each additional bar is $50. For this price, you bring them the gutted car. As Matt said, “he isn’t going to take out your seats for you.”

An expert build has more advantages. SCCA rules limit the amount of deformation in the tubing bends. In the main hoop, which bends significantly as it turns down from the roof, you risk exceeding the limit if you use an inexpensive roll bender. The builder will also have installed many cages on your type of car (or a very similar one). Howard certainly knows more about cage mounting points in Proteges than I do, even though I know that car well.

In some ways I hate the idea of having someone else do anything to my cars–especially the Protege because it’s such a beater. But in this situation, where I’m going to have to pass a rigorous technical inspection by an association that has a reputation for being very meticulous and safety-conscious, I’m willing to defer. The roll cage is among the most important safety devices in a race car, and I’m not about to make compromises.

When I told Chris Howard I was going to do my own cage, he was very supportive. “If you’re going to do it yourself, I’m happy to talk to you and give you any advice you need. But, should you change your mind, give me a call.” And what bona fide car guy wouldn’t want to see someone try it on his own? My point isn’t to discourage anyone from building his own cage. However, if you do, be aware of the risks and the challenges.